BELLA,

If restaurants were only about what's on the plate, they would do fine with take-out windows instead of dining rooms. But it's the entire dining experience that earns restaurateurs their gold stars in heaven, if not in the Zagat or Michelin guides. At Bella, they've certainly taken this attitude to heart. One look at all the Italian comfort food on the menu shows this is a restaurant that would rather please than impress. Chicken soup is offered daily, and while a long list of intriguing specials greets you at the door, the regular menu sticks to tried-and-true fare, from standard-prep fried calamari to four versions of veal and five of chicken. Some of the prices are ridiculously low, such as $10 for pasta with sausage and meatballs, and $9.50 for half a chicken -- with pasta and salad. Johnnie snubbed the fancier dishes for the simple gnocchi Sorrentina ($12), which included a tasty marinara sauce.

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